SRI EXPLORES: COUTRALLAM EP02
The first time I visited Coutrallam, I was working as a cinematographer on a documentary project. I was so immersed in capturing the moments that I ended up slipping and falling several times. Every time I tripped, I received a hard knock to the back of my head. There were several reasons for my clumsiness: it was the rainy season, the floors were wet and mossy, I was wearing the wrong slippers, I was too focused on what was inside the frame rather than outside it, and I was physically out of shape. Ultimately, my first experience in Coutrallam shook my mental state as it made me realize I was out of balance. This event occurred towards the end of 2020, right after the “Covid Lockdown” phenomenon, during which I had gained a significant amount of weight. Eventually, by mid 2021, I fled the big city and decided to hole up in a remote village in the Himalayas. I spent four entire months in Parvati valley, and it only cost me 8000 rupees per month to live there. I trekked extensively and regained my fitness. As the weather began to turn colder, I decided to seek out a place with ample sunlight. Returning to the big cities was out of the question, as I feared getting stuck in another lockdown. I wanted to move to a rural environment where I could still see the mountains in the landscape and live within my budget. After weighing the pros and cons, I decided to go back to Coutrallam. Fortunately, I wasn’t alone—my cousin “Arunachalam” was with me. We were venturing into unfamiliar territory with no clue about where we would stay. Thus began our adventurous exploration of the divine Tenkasi.
Note: I will share the Parvati Valley story some other day.
Delhi To Tirunelveli – THIRUKKURAL SF EXPRESS
Phew… Just thinking about that exhausting 48-hour train ride still tires me out. When the train briefly stopped at Chennai Central Station, I was so tempted to abandon my plans. We didn’t inform any of our close ones because we knew they’d think we were crazy. The plan was to reach Tirunelveli, take a bus to Kadayam, and then seek help from an acquaintance to find a place to stay in Coutrallam. Our spirits lifted once we boarded the early morning bus from Tirunelveli to Kadayam. We were greeted by countless lakes, fresh drizzles, silhouette mountains, and gigantic trees. Our acquaintance, Headmaster Sundaralingam Sir, graciously allowed us to stay at his guest house for as long as we needed. He was delighted to provide space for artists and took pride in the fact that Kadayam once housed the great poet Bharathiyar. Given his busy schedule, we refrained from imposing on him any more than necessary.
Luckily, our only “happily married” friends had recently relocated to Ambasamudram in Tirunelveli district, which was much closer to Kadayam. We visited them, and they kindly lent us their spare bike. We scouted Coutrallam for the next three days, trying our best to find a house for rent. That’s when we started facing challenges. First, no one trusted bachelors due to past incidents. The presumption was that bachelors would drink, vomit everywhere, and try to woo local village girls. Secondly, people were worried we might be from Kerala and didn’t want to rent to ‘mallus.’ Some had even committed serious crimes. Third, there were many houses for sale but very few for rent. Brokers kept showing us hotel rooms instead of houses. Finally, a 90-year-old grandpa understood who we were and what we wanted. He said, ‘You are storytellers, ah? Then you need a house where there is silence and peace.’ He found us an individual house for rent with two rooms and a hall. There was no kitchen, but that was fine for us. We had to pay 15 thousand as an advance and 5 thousand per month as rent. We closed the deal because we loved the view from the terrace, where we could see the Coutrallam waterfalls directly.
Rural areas can be unkind to the poor and to those without a caste. Wherever we went, people would first ask about our caste before even asking our names. When asked where we’re from, saying “Chennai” isn’t well-received; rural folks tend to distance themselves from Chennai residents. It’s better to mention our native place, which brings a smile to their faces. Villagers enjoy conversing with storytellers because they have their own stories to share. Believe it or not, there’s a bike mechanic in Coutrallam who is a devoted Manga fan! Storytellers and artists hold a special place among villagers. Our identity made people eager to introduce us to new places for exploration, and there was so much to discover around Tenkasi. Visiting there made me realize that the roots of Tamil culture originate from Tenkasi, which explains its spiritual significance. In this episode, we will explore the tales and natural phenomena that make the town distinctive.
Why is it called “Kasi of the south”?
In 2019, during my visit to Varanasi, I discovered something fascinating about the world’s oldest city. Typically, the river Ganga flows from the Himalayas towards the south and east, but in Kashi, it uniquely flows from south to north, forming a crescent shape reminiscent of the moon on Shiva’s head. This rare natural occurrence is believed to be a testament to Kashi’s spiritual energy. A boat ride along the river offers a chance to witness this phenomenon. Similarly, in South India, the Western Ghats generally extends from north to south. However, near Tenkasi, the mountain range shifts from west to east, creating a couple of wind tunnels in the region. Although invisible to the naked eye, two divine wind streams are said to flow through Tenkasi, precisely where the Arulmigu Kasi Vishwanathar temple stands. To honor this unique occurrence, ancient builders constructed a Gopuram that allows one to feel both wind streams blowing in opposite directions beneath the 180-foot man-made wonder.
Tenkasi Vishwanathar Temple: King Parakirama Pandiyan desired to worship Kasi Vishwanathar daily, but traveling to Varanasi every day was impractical. One night, his lord appeared in a dream, instructing him to follow an army of ants the next day. Following the ants, the king discovered a spot with a Shiva linga and a nearby vigraha of Nandi. Astonished, he began worshipping Kasi Vishwanathar at this very location, where the magnificent Katrali temple now stands. Due to this historical event, the town is named Tenkasi. In Tamil, “Thenn” means “South.”
Not far from Tenkasi lies a strategic spot known as “Vel-malai.” From this vantage point, the mountain range stretching from Tenkasi to Puliyangudi appears to form a crescent shape, reminiscent of the moon on Shiva’s head. Coincidence? I stayed in Coutrallam for two years, during which I had the opportunity to explore and experience countless other phenomena as well. We will delve into more in the coming episodes. If you’re interested in learning more about “Vel-malai”, please read the first episode.
Wind Tunnels
A natural wind tunnel created by mountains is often called a mountain pass wind or valley wind. These winds form when air is channeled through narrow mountain passes or valleys, resulting in strong, concentrated wind currents.
There are two mountain passes near Tenkasi:
- Aryankavu Pass / Shencottai Gap
- Achankovil Pass
They link the Kerala side of the Western Ghats with the Coromandel Coastal Plains of Tamil Nadu. These areas are easily accessible by two-wheelers, four-wheelers, and buses, making them excellent spots for both micro and macro explorations.
Old Memory
When I was 15, my physics teacher asked me a clever question: “Where does wind come from?” I was stumped and couldn’t answer. She gave me a sharp slap and said, “Wind comes from the ceiling fan!”
Where does it actually come from? During the day, land heats up faster than water, causing warm air to rise and cooler air to move in, creating wind. At night, the land cools down quicker than the water, reversing the wind direction.
What’s Next?
I hope you enjoyed episode 02! Please share your thoughts in the comments section. In episode 03, I’ll provide more information about the various waterfalls in Tenkasi district. Stay tuned!
