SRI EXPLORES: Coutrallam EP01

Dear explorers, did you know that nestled amidst the lush greenery and cascading waterfalls near Coutrallam, there exists a sacred cluster of temples known as the Arupadai Veedu? These six temples are not only places of spiritual worship but also gateways to understanding the marvels of nature. For those who seek the essence of nature, who yearn for breathtaking vistas, and who feel the pulse of Murugan’s energy, these sacred sites beckon. So, fellow seekers, let’s explore—where geology and spirituality intertwine, and where wonder awaits.

AYIKUDI – Balasubramaniya Swami Temple (500 years old)

At a distance of 7 km from Tenkasi, 12 km from Courtallam, and 60 km from Tirunelveli, on the banks of the Hanuman River, Sri Balasubramanya Swamy Temple graces the village of Ayikudi. Ayikudi is renowned for the gentle drizzles it receives from Thiru Coutrallam, the lush paddy fields that surrounds the village and talented singers who have performed here. The village is named after “Aai Andiran”, a notable leader in Tamil history, who specialized in training male elephants for warfare and female elephants for transportation. The temple’s architecture is a fascinating blend of Kerala-style design and Tamil culture. The main deity of the Sri Balasubramanya Swamy Temple is Lord Balasubramanya Swami, also known as Rama Subramanya Swami. The Moolavar Moorthy (central idol) depicts a young, baby-faced Murugan with four hands—a sight of divine grace. Within the temple premises, five sacred trees provide shelter for wide varieties for birds, especially parrots. When you spend time there, try to sense the smell emanating from the following Vrikshas: Arasa Maram (Beepal); Vembu Maram (Neem); Kariveppilai Maram (Curry Leaf); Madhulai Maram (Pomegranate); Maavilangu Maram (Garlic Pear)

The Hanuman River: During his search for Sita Devi, Hanuman grew thirsty. Rather than venturing far for water, he used the sharp edge of his tail to create a stream and quenched his thirst. This river, aptly named Hanuma Nadhi, remains unique as it lacks a clear origin and doesn’t merge with any other river. For a bird’s eye, it must look like a graceful curve, as if drawn by a celestial tail. It is believed that even Lord Rama himself drank from this river and rested on its peaceful banks. When explored thoroughly, Ayikudi will reveal an inexhaustible number of captivating stories that are still waiting to be discovered.

ILANJI – Arulmigu Ilanji Kumarar Temple (1500 years old)

Rich in natural resources, Ilanji is an oasis surrounded by trees such as mango, jackfruit, banana, kamugu, coconut, palm trees, and lush paddy fields. The town is bound by two rivers: Sitraru and Kundaru. The word ‘Ilanji’ holds multiple meanings, including lake, pool, basin, or pond. According to Sangam Tamil tradition, when a village is enclosed by ponds on all four sides, it rightfully earns the title “Ilanji.” The soul of Ilanji resides within the Kumarar Temple—a sacred sanctuary cocooned by fields and ancient Shenbaga trees that are more than 400 years old. Inside the temple, there is a tree called Ilanji (Mimusops elengi) which blossoms year-round inviting birds and casting cool shade. Year after year, peacocks are drawn towards this temple’s serenity. Centuries ago, Maravarman Kulasekara Pandian restored this spiritual abode, while in the 15th century, Kalathia Pandian, the zamindar of Chokkampatti, fortified it with protective walls. Recently, devotees collaborated to craft a splendid chariot for the deity. Celebrated poet Arunagiri Nathar, in his Thirupugazh, has extolled the virtues of Thiru Ilanji Kumarar. To the best of my recollection, I’ve never seen another temple maintained as well as Arulmigu Ilanji Kumarar Temple. Beside Kumarar, Iruvaluka Nayakan and Iruvaluka Nayaki also find their abode in this sacred space. From the temple’s vantage point, one can behold the majestic Coutrallam falls and the entire mountain range that cradles it. The stream from Coutrallam falls, named Chitra river, meanders right behind the temple premises. Beyond the temple grounds lie numerous Siddhar samadhis and mandapams that are ideal for contemplation. The earthy scent, the thendral breeze, and awe-inspiring western ghats, make this temple an ideal haven for explorers seeking tranquility. Plan your visit: The temple gates welcome devotees from 6:30 am to 12:30 pm and again from 4:30 pm to 8:00 pm.

TENKASI – Tenn Pazhani Aandavar Temple (Unknown)

This temple remains a mystery yet to be solved. Situated right next to the Tenkasi prime junction, on the banks of the Sitraru River, the sacred abode of Senthil Andavar is hidden in plain sight. Most people fail to visit this temple, except for ardent devotees of the deity. From the outside, it appears fairly unnoticeable, but once we enter the premises, we suddenly feel like we’ve stepped into a different world. The ancient architecture and intricate carvings hint at its age. Compared to every other Murugan temple in this region, this one is unfortunately neglected by most. Swamy, as Dhandayuthapani, presents a graceful and divine sight to behold. If you’re a fan of mysteries and an explorer who seeks to learn about lesser-known places, Tenpalani Aandavar calls for your attention.

PANPOLI – Thirumalai Kovil Kumara Swamy (15th Century)

Located just 5 km from Panpoli Bus Stop, 18 km from Courtallam, and 71 km from Tirunelveli, ThirumalaiKovil is a serene hill temple amidst coconut plantations, quaint villages and majestic western ghats. Until recently, the only way to reach the temple was by ascending 600 plus steep mountain steps. However, a new road has been constructed, allowing devotees to travel by two-wheelers and four-wheelers. This road provides unprecedented views of the western ghats, captivating photographers and nature enthusiasts alike. The journey from Tenkasi to Panpoli is delightful, especially if you enjoy driving along the quiet countryside roads. At the hill’s summit lies a pristine water lake, believed to have been formed by the divine power of sage Agasthiyar. Legend has it that a lotus flower blooms in this tank every day. On the banks of the spring, you’ll find the idols of Saptha Kannikas, adding to the temple’s spiritual aura. The sthala vriksha (sacred tree) is a tamarind tree that offers shade to Murugan’s consort, Valli Devi. In this temple, Lord Murugan appears as Thirumalai Kumaran—a handsome and benevolent prince. The hill also houses a shrine dedicated to Goddess Kali. The temple has featured prominently in various Tamil movies. For those intrigued by the landscape and geography of the Tenkasi region, this mountain stands as an excellent vantage point. Opening hours: 6 AM – 1 PM and 5 PM to 8.30 PM

History: Murugan appeared in a dream to one of his devoted followers, “Poovan Battar”, archagar at Thirumalai Kaliamman Temple. The lord desired that the ruler of the region excavate his lost idol, hidden beneath bamboo bushes near Kottaithiradu on the way to Achankoil. Battar relayed the message to the Kerala King of Pandalam at that time. Both the king and Battar followed the instructions, and when they reached the forest, small fire ants led them to the spot where the idol lay hidden. While unearthing Lord Muruga’s Thirumeni (sacred form) from the earth, a small scar formed on the nose, enhancing the beauty of the vigraha. Since then he is affectionately known as Mookan. In ancient days, Tirumalai housed only a Kali shrine, the tamarind tree, and a Vel (sacred spear) beneath it—precisely where the temple stands today. Silapathikaram refers to this hill as Neduvelkundram. Legend has it that Kannaki traversed this hill on her way to Kerala Desam.

Sivagami Paradesi Ammayaar deserves significant credit for safeguarding and maintaining this temple. To those reading this, take pride in learning about Sivagami Paradesi Ammayar. Her name continues to resonate through the rustling tamarind leaves of Thirumalaikovil. Typically, we revere deities as our divine parents. However, Ammayar regarded Kumaran (Murugan) as her very own son. Very few are acquainted with such remarkable women of Tamil culture who embraced Sanyasam (renunciation). I encourage you to explore Ammayar’s story and discover the divine firsthand. Here is a link: https://www.tamildigitallibrary.in/admin/assets/book/

KANAKKUPILLAI VALASAI – Vel Malai Balasubramanya Swamy (1300 years)

Once upon a time, this hill was known as “Aadhi Thirumalai.” Here, Aadhi Naadha Siddhar, immersed in severe penance, yearned for Lord Murugan’s divine feet to touch his head. His wish was granted when Murugan appeared as a small child, and the sage attained moksha. To this day, the lord stands in eternal meditation on his Samadhi. Legends tell us that Sage Agastyar frequented this sacred spot for meditation. Atop the hill lies a remarkable water hole, known as “chunai,” which defies the scorching summer sun by never drying up. The water possesses medicinal properties and is used for deity worship. Devotees receive its blessed sprinkling after paying homage to Lord Balasubramanya Swamy. Near the chunai reside Saptha Kanniga and Navagraha, while Swarna Bhairavar stands as the guardian deity of Vel Malai. When viewed from above, the hill resembles a Vel (the sacred spear of Lord Murugan), hence its fitting name—Velmalai. Though not towering like its neighboring peaks, Velmalai occupies a strategic position, offering an unparalleled vantage point to behold the entire expanse of the Western Ghats. Visitors seeking to witness the celestial phenomena of Dakshinayana and Utharayana will find solace here. Thirumalaikovil is visible from Velmalai, but the reverse remains elusive. Situated in Sengottai Taluk, along the path to Panpoli, Velmalai beckons pilgrims and nature enthusiasts alike. Remember, the temple opens its gates on Tuesdays, Fridays, full moon days, and no moon days, welcoming devotees from 7:30 am to 9:00 am and 4:00 pm to 6:00 pm.

KADAYAM – Thoranaimalai Murugan Cave Temple (PURANIC)

Nestled in the lush Kurinji landscape near Kadayam in the Tenkasi district of Tamil Nadu, Thoranaimalai is a place of wonder—a mountain steeped in natural beauty and spiritual significance. Its contours resemble a reclining elephant, which is why the locals affectionately refer to it as “Vaaranamalai” (where “Vaaranam” means elephant in Tamil). 🐘

To the south, the Ramanadi River flows, while the Jambu River graces its northern side. Between these rivers, Thoranaimalai stands majestically, its slopes rich with history and medicines. Sage Agastyar and his disciple Theraiyar once made this mountain their home, dedicating themselves to researching Siddha herbal medicines. Their legacy extends beyond botanical knowledge: remarkably, they performed India’s first cranial surgery right here on Thoranaimalai, effectively establishing the world’s first medical school. The mountain boasts approximately 64 natural springs, two of which are located at its base. Bathing in these springs is believed to cure skin ailments and various health conditions. Each spring’s water carries a unique flavor and medicinal properties, remaining perennial even during scorching summers. At the foot of Thoranaimalai lies the Saptha Kannigaiyar temple, while the Sastha temple rests at its back. At the mountain’s pinnacle, inside a mesmerizing cave, Lord Murugan blesses devotees. To reach this sacred spot, pilgrims ascend a challenging 2,000 steps—a journey that not only tests their physical endurance but also leads to peace of mind and spiritual fulfillment. As if watching over her son, Badrakaali Amman sits in front of the Murugan shrine. Pilgrims traditionally visit her first before paying homage to Lord Murugan.

Mahakavi Bharathiyar, the celebrated poet, briefly resided in nearby Kadayam. He praised Thoranaimalai Murugan as “the cave-dweller,” capturing the mountain’s mystical essence in his verses. There is beautiful song by SP Balasubramaniyam which celebrates this ecological wonder. Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y8HrrUU2XDY

The mountain temple opens its gates from 5:00 am until 3:00 pm, allowing devotees to connect with the divine and immerse themselves in the serene surroundings.

CONCLUSION

The places mentioned above aren’t merely tourist destinations; they carry fragments of human history within their sacred precincts. I’ve always been captivated by the interesting stories surrounding the ‘Arupadai Veedu’ in Tamil Nadu—the six abodes of Lord Muruga. During my stay in Courtallam, my curiosity was piqued when I learned about the ‘Arupadai Veedu’ near Tenkasi. I am glad that I had the time and mind space to explore them in this lifetime. However, there remain countless untold tales waiting to be explored within these spiritual wonders. This article, I hope, has been informative for you. If you’re interested, feel free to discuss them with me—I’d be a decent guide if you’re planning a visit to Tenkasi to explore these sacred sites. Thank you for your time.